Відео

Good question. Im not sure what the part numbers are but they should be available at the dealer. WIX and Puralator manufactures these for Mopar. I’m sure you can go aftermarket as well if you don’t care for the blue. Or a quick call to your local dealer should get you the part number as well. I usually buy Mopar stuff online at a big discount.

Don’t really remember. It’s an old video. But it was solid compared to the old worn out one. If in doubt, always go OEM. This cheap one just worked for us.

not at all.

I know it doesn’t sound as old as the late 19 hundreds, but 20 years is pretty old.

No, I did not have to reprogram it.

Now imagine having a plastic oil pan like BMW.

I was overthinking it until I saw some stands at a museum. I thought I can do this cheaper.

This is for the clutch. Not the brakes. You don’t have to touch the brake lines to do this.

@@Turbo_Snail Thank you! Im assume they simply decided to upgrade the brake line while they were working in the general area.

@scottinca1 we did a video on the brakes and the braided brake lines

@@Turbo_Snail Thanks Turbo! Just to be certain - I can replace Slave & Master cylinder to get clutch engaging and functional again? It's a 1990, 215K miles, rarely driven however love the car and eager to get it back out on the road! I can't thank you enough for your insight and support!

Yes you can. It’s easier with a second person but this job is totally doable by one self. Let me know how you did. Make sure you bleed it properly. That clutch will feel nice again.

I appreciate looking out. I did in fact do it. When I edited the video I noticed the same thing and I stuck a GoPro down there and it is on properly. I scared me for a moment.

🤔 I would imagine a body shop could fix that. The metal is way too hard down there to apply any home remedies. Mine are not dented but I have seen some cars being lifted on the bin rather than the frame.

@@Turbo_Snail Thanks, I will get ahold of a bodyshop and see what they can do to knock it back into place, I will keep you posted, thanks for the reply.

@richardhill2379 shop around. I’ve gotten some prices for a little dent anywhere from $190 to $800. My rule, get at least 3 quotes. Good luck!

@@Turbo_Snail I will follow your suggestion there, both are dented one is worse than the other, I'm thinking a grand or more now after your quotes. I was hoping maybe they bolted on to make it easier. Thanks Turbo !

@richardhill2379 if you’re not going to use them for its intended purposes, we’ve used ours maybe 2 dozen times in 11 years, I don’t think it’s worth fixing. Just make sure there is no water coming in and I would leave dented.

I would recheck it but I don’t remember it coming with some type of seal so it should be ok that way.

That’s an excellent question. It’s too dry, tight, so it doesn’t let it snap in all the way at the end. What happens when you flip it up, it’s all plastic and it bends as it’s not “loose” enough. Instead of rotating, you’re actually bending the “stick”. Lubricating it, lets it reduce resistance, less flex and therefore it’ll reach that point where it needs to sit. It’s really hard for me to explain without any visual aid. It doesn’t always work. It’s really a bandaid because inevitably it’ll just fail. This usually gives it another 2, 3 or 4 years of operation before you have to ultimately replace it.

Thank you. It was easier than I thought.

I usually list it in the description.

Jeep has gotten greedy lately. Apparently they bankrupted in china, can’t sell any cars any where else either. Seems they thought they were a premium brand with premium prices. Come to find out they forgot their place and got cocky. Now they are stuck with thousands of cars that are aging on dealers lots. Get ready to pick up a Jeep for cheap and use it for its intended purpose and not grocery store parking lots.

Hm. Better ask over on Facebook at PentastarV6Performance. You getting the oil changed at a shop? Did they actually use the correct oil or what you asked for? That doesn’t sound like an oil cooler failure to me. Hot oil means there is more friction where you don’t want it. Water can only cool so much. I doubt it’s a sensor failure either.

@@Turbo_Snail No, I do all my own work/maintenance so I know it's done right. Saw a couple of things on a MOPAR page I'm going to check out. We'll see. Anyway, thanks for the reply. Blessings.

I hope it’s an easy fix! Good luck!

Actually when there is weight on it, it requires a lot of force to lift those levers. Almost impossible to do it. These are not like your grandfather stands that require a safety pin. If they are old, I would change them for new, non harbor freight ones.

Even with my extra long low profile jack, I can’t reach under the engine on my car. Also there is no safe jacking point in the middle of the car. Every car has markings where to apply the jacks safely. Also it’s usually illustrated in the user manual. There are tons of TikTok’s where people break their car jacking it up in the wrong spot. I for one, have never seen a professional jack up a car on the side/middle. Most cars are usually front heavy and would pivot forward if you attempted to do that. Be safe out there.

Watch my original video. There is a small plastic piece that cracked in there. I just removed it in 2 pieces.

I don’t have that car anymore but I remember when I pulled out the unit, I was surprised that everything was sealed in. Now, my Chrysler 200 which is essentially the same car, has an access panel through the wheel well to change the bulb. The Cherokee was a bit newer than my 200. So maybe somewhere between 2016 and 2021 they may have decided that we could somehow afford a $1600 headlight assembly when the lightbulb burns out.

I wouldn’t pour anything down there. Those are your valves. You see 2, there are 2 more on the other side. Just fill good gas and use fuel injector cleaner regularly. It’ll clean up in a few thousand miles. Look at my videos, you see mine were dirty too when I ran regular discount gas. Because I run e85 they are probably cleaner. All I can recommend is use quality fuel from a reputable gas station and not a discount station.

@Turbo_Snail thanks a lot man idk if I can use e85 or not. I know you said something about a yellow gas cap but mine is capless. I'm sure some ethanol free would be good though? I already have a bottle of redline fuel injector cleaner I'm planning on using. While I got it apart I was thinking of soaking injectors in diesel or something. I ordered some orings for fuel injectors. I don't think your supposed to reuse o rings on them are you? What do you think about the diesel soak?

@thestraitgateway yeah. You can’t use e85 if it’s not specifically stated.

Actually. In this video. I just took it out. I have a follow up video that shows how to reinstall it.

If it’s pneumatic it’s probably similar.

Absolutely. We compared Dorman vs Chinese knockoffs. The quality is apparent. If you want metal shards in your system you gotta go cheap knockoff.

@@Turbo_Snail Oh I see. But Dorman compared to OEM is ehhhh. They’re very hit or miss in a high volume repair shop. Depends on the comparison I suppose. Their door handles are fine. Their intake manifolds can be troublesome.

I can only speak to the stuff I’m using and the oil cooler is superior to the knockoffs as well as oem. So is the thermostat housing. The OEM housing is plastic and it warps under constant heat cycles. That’s why there are so many failures.

@@Turbo_Snail I certainly like the idea of metal construction for such hot parts. Maybe i’ll give the Dorman a shot, thanks

You can do that, or if your car has a yellow gas cap just run some e85 through your tank. Give it about 5-10 tank fulls and that’ll be squeaky clean. Carbon buildup is from cheap gas. Meaning not 87 or 93 octane but shell vs a cheapo no name brand. Go with a brand name. They ad more detergents to the fuel to keep things cleaner.

@@Turbo_Snail thanks for the reply. My gas doesn't have a cap

@thestraitgateway too bad. E85 is the best ever happening to me. So much more mid range torque. I’ve driven in e85 90% of my cars life and it’s great. I don’t think it’s worth converting unless you really looking for performance. I do have range anxiety as e85 is not everywhere available.

Dorman doesn’t sell the whole unit. Only the way you see it there. There are other cheaper knock offs but it’s been proven over the last year that the cheap coolers break even quicker than the plastic one one.

oh man, that really blows. You would think they would know better. Try to get hands on the original pump that was in there or ask Mercedes directly, maybe it's possible, so you still do a correct swap.

I think mine does have a bolt on it. It's a pain to get to but I make it a point to put it back on. I know one day I'll just give up not throw it away like on all other pentestar engines.

If I remember right there are 2. One for pressure and one for temperature. It doesn’t control it. It just measures it.

Oh my! You shouldn’t have. I do really appreciate it. Thank you so much for your support. But for real. I love to do these videos. I wish I had more time for it.

Excellent. I’m glad.

Thank you!

Oh wow. Thank you very much, but you shouldn’t have. Everyone here has been so nice that’s why I keep making the videos. Thanks again. It’s much appreciated!!!

I believe that When somebody does a good job, you give them some reward to keep them motivated. Thank you so much for taking time and making this video it was very helpful.

@torresx06 thank you again for your kindness.

Gosh darned. It's too detailed. Very good writeup. Thank you! I guess I'll have to do it again, the proper way without all my frustration of that bad design. I wish I could pin it to the top.

Works excellent. Just did an oil change and checked. Bone dry down there. Super happy. That being said, my work Promaster 1500 had an oil cooler failure at just 53k miles. They were going to charge me until I mentioned that power train warranty is 60k miles. They are doing it this weekend for free. :)

At 7:09 , what is that drop that you put on the 4 screws?

@torresx06 ah. That is thread locker. Very important so it doesn’t loosen over time. The blue one is the one to use. It’s removable. There is also red which can not be removed later on. Links should be all in the description.

It’s perfect

Talk to whoever supplied you that supercharger. You don’t want the wrong size in there. Also, should the kit come with the correct size injectors and tune?

@Turbo_Snail it's come with Gm 50 lb injector but maybe I need bigger bcz I'm porting the supercharger

@Alhammadi-gy5jb nah. I’m pretty sure you won’t be able to exhaust these 50lb injectors. That’s a lot of fuel. Even with the SC. Talk to the people who sold you the SC or even better, the tuner who will adjust this for you.

Check with the guys over a PentastarV6Performance on Facebook. They are very knowledgable. I was told maybe 1100cc injectors

Thank you. Much appreciated.

I don't even remember wearing one. Which one was it? I guess I gotta rewatch my videos. But all my modern watches have sapphire crystal so no scratches.

Glad it helped!

Wonder how you do that?!

Shouldn't be a problem. You going with Factory style injectors or aftermarket ones. My Corvette injectors didn't have that notch. So I had to hold it together and slowly seat it into place as there are no notches. Then I used the fuel rail to set them in place. Make sure you used assembly fluid or at least some oil to seat them. Inspect the o-ring and make sure they are not damaged.

@@Turbo_Snail I used oil on the O-rings I gave up for today. It got too late but I’m gonna do it tomorrow. I’ll get them the seat. Had so many other things to do to it.

@@Turbo_Snail it was pouring fuel all over all six of them were leaking

What kind of injectors are you using?

@@Turbo_Snail PJMVO They are now seating the o-ring on the lower part of the injector was two small it was orange not red

Hm. 🤔 first time I hear of that. You should always be able to shift back into park. Check MBWorld.org. Those guys are a lot smarter.

I’m here for the same issue on a C320

Check the gasket. Make sure it’s not pinched. If it is, just get a new oil filter. It’ll come with a new gasket that goes in the orange cap. Maybe it’s not in the right place.

@@Turbo_Snail I just figured it out literally I didn’t put the large o ring on the cap correctly so it caused it to leak but I just put in correct place and now there is no leak but there’s more oil to clean out in future from leakage 🙃🥲

That’s great! Love it. I wish Chrysler would make things easier but then I wouldn’t have made the video:)

I’m glad it worked.